Collection: Chanel Vintage

Discover our carefully authenticated selection of vintage Chanel pieces: Classic Flap and 2.55 bags, tweed suits, little black dresses, camellia jewellery and rare accessories. Every piece is assessed by hand by our team on Avenue Louise and delivered with its certificate of authenticity. Because Chanel is not just a brand, it is a heritage that is passed down.

The History of Chanel, from Rue Cambon to the Present Day

Founded in 1910 by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris, the house of Chanel transformed women's fashion by freeing the female body from the corset. Initially a milliner, Coco Chanel opened her first couture boutique in Deauville in 1913, then in Biarritz in 1915, introducing a radically new wardrobe: soft materials, straight silhouettes, and the use of knit and jersey, fabrics until then reserved for undergarments.

Three creations founded the legend. The tweed suit (1925) borrowed from the masculine wardrobe and became the uniform of modern elegance. The N°5 perfume (1921), composed by Ernest Beaux, was the first fragrance to bear the name of a couturier. The quilted 2.55 bag (1955, named after its creation date, February 1955), with its golden chain inspired by the keychains of orphanage matrons and its burgundy lining recalling the uniforms of Aubazine, finally allowed women to keep their hands free.

Following Coco Chanel's death on 10 January 1971, the house went through a decade of uncertainty. Everything changed in 1983: Karl Lagerfeld was appointed artistic director and would lead the collections for 36 years, until his death in February 2019. He reinterpreted the house codes (tweed, the camellia, black and white, pearls, quilting) with a freedom that Coco herself had never dared. His right hand, Virginie Viard, succeeded him from 2019 to June 2024.

Since April 2025, the French-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy, a graduate of La Cambre in Brussels and previously artistic director of Bottega Veneta, has led creation at Chanel. His first ready-to-wear show for spring-summer 2026, presented at the Grand Palais in October 2025, opened a new era. Chanel, a house that has remained fiercely independent and one of the three largest luxury houses in the world (around 18.7 billion dollars in revenue in 2024), thus begins its fourth artistic direction since its founding.

Iconic Chanel Pieces

The Classic Flap Bag

Created in 1983 by Karl Lagerfeld as an evolution of the 2.55, the Classic Flap is distinguished by its interlocking CC clasp (whereas the 2.55 kept the rectangular Mademoiselle clasp, in homage to Coco's status). Available in five main sizes: Mini (20 cm), Small (23 cm), Medium/Jumbo (25-30 cm) and Maxi (33 cm). It comes in lambskin (softer, prone to marks) or caviar leather (grained, almost indestructible). Its retail price rose from €2,850 in 2010 to more than €11,000 in 2024, making it one of the most sought-after investment pieces on the vintage market.

The 2.55 Bag

Created by Coco Chanel in February 1955, the 2.55 is the ancestor of the Classic Flap and remains prized by purists. Recognisable by its rectangular Mademoiselle clasp (Coco having never married), its fully golden chain without leather interlacing, and its original burgundy lining. Reissues of the 2.55 (notably the 50th anniversary edition in 2005) are particularly sought after.

The Boy Bag

Launched in 2011 by Karl Lagerfeld in homage to Boy Capel, Coco's great love, the Boy Chanel offers a more masculine and architectural aesthetic: a wide brushed-metal clasp, more graphic quilting, and rectangular shapes. It targets a younger clientele without abandoning the house codes. Highly sought after in black caviar leather.

The Tweed Suit

Created in 1925 and turned into an icon by Coco in the 1950s and 60s, the Chanel tweed suit is recognisable by its four patch pockets, its golden lining often adorned with chains sewn into the hem (to weight the jacket and keep it hanging properly), its CC or lion buttons (Coco's astrological sign), and the tweed woven specifically by the Scottish house Linton since 1928.

The Little Black Dress

Created in 1926 and immortalised by Vogue, which named it "Chanel's Ford", a car for everyone, in any colour as long as it was black. The little black dress became the emblem of democratised elegance. Vintage versions, notably those from the 1960s to 80s and the Lagerfeld reissues, are extremely sought after for their timeless cut.

The Signature Jewellery

Vintage Chanel jewellery includes pearl sautoirs (Coco's signature, which she wore in cascades), camellia brooches (her favourite flower, which does not wilt and has no scent so as not to compete with N°5), interlocking CC earrings and enamelled cuffs known as "Comète" or "Maltese Cross". Chanel costume jewellery is signed and dated, which makes authentication easier.

How to Authenticate a Chanel Bag

Authenticating a Chanel piece relies on examining several combined criteria. No single point is sufficient on its own; it is the coherence of the whole that proves authenticity. Here are the 7 checkpoints we systematically verify in our workshop on Avenue Louise.

1. The Hologram and Serial Number

All Chanel bags produced from 1984 onwards contain an authenticity hologram stuck inside the bag, paired with a 7 or 8 digit serial number. This number corresponds to a datable production range: 0-1 million (1984-1986), 1-2 million (1986-1988), and so on up to the 25+ million series of the 2020s. The authentic hologram has a fine golden layer with multicoloured reflections, and should never be damaged or missing on a bag less than 40 years old.

2. The Authenticity Card

Each bag is sold with an authenticity card whose number matches exactly that of the hologram. The authentic card is printed on thick cardstock with the interlocking CC in gold on the front, without any spelling mistakes. Caution: the presence of a card does not guarantee authenticity (modern counterfeits also provide them).

3. The Interlocking CC Engraving

On the clasp, the right C passes over the left C at the top of the interlacing, and underneath at the bottom. This is a detail that most counterfeits get reversed. The depth of the engraving, the sharpness of the edges and the weight of the metal are also key indicators.

4. The Quilting and Stitching

The number of quilting diamonds is consistent for each model: a Medium Classic Flap always has the same number of diamonds per side. Regularity must be perfect: no distorted diamonds, perfect alignment at the side seams. Authentic stitching counts 7 to 10 stitches per inch depending on the era, with an exact matching thread and no visible loops.

5. The Quality of the Leather

Authentic caviar leather has a regular grain, a distinctive smell (neither plastic nor chemical), a significant weight and a characteristic firmness. Lambskin is supple, warm to the touch, with a very fine natural grain. Leather that seems too smooth, too shiny or too light is a warning sign.

6. The Hardware

The chain must be heavy, plated with 24-carat gold on original models (pale gold on recent models since 2008). The links should never be open or poorly soldered. The rivets, buttons and bag feet all bear marks specific to the production era.

7. The Interior of the Bag

The interior always features an inner pocket with a signed zip (Éclair, Lampo or YKK depending on the era, never generic), a sewn "MADE IN FRANCE" or "MADE IN ITALY" label (never "made in" without capitals), and a lining in lambskin, grosgrain or branded fabric depending on the model.

Our method: at Les Enfants d'Édouard, every piece undergoes a 3-stage examination: visual inspection, verification of technical markers (hologram, serial number, stitching), and cross-referencing against our reference archive. In case of doubt, we consult an expert partner in Paris. Every authenticated piece is delivered with our certificate of authenticity.

Chanel Size Guide and Codes

Chanel Classic Flap Bags: Size Reference

Chanel Classic Flap size guide

Model	Width	Height	Use
Mini Square	17 cm	13 cm	Evening
Mini Rectangular	20 cm	12 cm	Short outing
Small	23 cm	14 cm	Light daytime use
Medium	25 cm	15 cm	The most versatile
Jumbo	30 cm	20 cm	Full day
Maxi	33 cm	23 cm	Travel / work

Chanel Ready-to-Wear: Sizing

Chanel uses French sizing: 34 (XS), 36 (S), 38 (M), 40 (L), 42 (XL), 44 (XXL). Vintage pieces from before 1990 often run smaller than their modern equivalents: a size 38 from the 1980s generally corresponds to a current 36. Tweed suits are frequently tailored to measure after purchase, as Linton tweed alters very well.

Jewellery and Date Codes

Authentic Chanel jewellery is signed "Chanel" on the clasp, followed by a date code from 1985 onwards: two digits for the year (86 = 1986), then CC and a digit for the season (1 = spring, 2 = autumn) since 1993. This code allows precise dating of the piece. See also our general luxury size guide.

Why Invest in a Vintage Chanel Piece

Chanel has become, like Hermès, one of only two houses whose pieces systematically appreciate in value. According to the Bain & Company 2024 report, the second-hand luxury market grew by 28% between 2020 and 2023, driven precisely by these two houses. The Medium Classic Flap bag, which cost €2,850 in store in 2010, now trades between €7,000 and €11,000 on the second-hand market depending on condition, an appreciation higher than that of most traditional asset classes.

Three reasons explain this appreciation. First, Chanel's pricing strategy: since 2015, the house has applied annual increases of 5 to 15%, mechanically making older pieces more desirable. Next, rarity: Lagerfeld suits from collections before 2000, certain limited editions and discontinued pieces will never return to the boutique. Finally, the heritage dimension: a well-maintained Chanel bag is passed down across several generations, it is a purchase and not an expense.

Buying it second-hand at Les Enfants d'Édouard means accessing the house with a saving on the current retail price, while taking part in a circular luxury economy that conserves resources. And for those who wish to resell a Chanel piece, we offer an expert consignment service.

Our Chanel Selection in Brussels, on Avenue Louise

Our boutique Les Enfants d'Édouard, 175 Avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, is one of the finest addresses in Belgium for vintage Chanel. We receive on average 15 to 25 new Chanel pieces every month (bags, suits, jewellery, accessories) sourced from European collectors and private consignors. All are authenticated before being placed on sale.

We welcome you Tuesday through Saturday to try the pieces, benefit from personalised advice on choosing a model (investment, size, care) and, if you wish, book a private appointment outside opening hours.

Care and Maintenance of Your Chanel Pieces

A well-maintained Chanel piece passes through the decades without losing its value. Care is part of the investment.

For bags, always store them in their original cotton dust bag (never in plastic, which causes condensation and damages the leather), with acid-free tissue paper padding to maintain the shape. Avoid direct sunlight and humid environments. Caviar leather is cleaned with a soft, slightly damp cloth; lambskin requires specific care for delicate hides. Golden chains are polished with a dry microfibre cloth, never with chemical products.

For tweed suits, opt for dry cleaning by an experienced professional (once per season maximum). Hang them on a wide, structured hanger, never on a thin hanger that would distort the shoulders.

For jewellery, avoid contact with perfumes, perspiration and cream. Store them separately in their original pouch to avoid scratches. A soft cloth is enough for daily care.

In case of doubt or necessary repair, contact the boutique team directly.

Frequently Asked Questions About Vintage Chanel

How do I recognise a genuine vintage Chanel bag?

An authentic Chanel bag is recognised by seven combined criteria: the authenticity hologram stuck inside (since 1984), the serial number matching its card, the precise engraving of the interlocking CC on the clasp (right C over the top), the regularity of the quilting and stitching (7 to 10 stitches per inch), the quality of the leather, the heaviness of the gold-plated hardware, and the signed interior with a "MADE IN FRANCE" label.

Do vintage Chanel bags appreciate in value?

Yes, Chanel is one of only two luxury houses (along with Hermès) whose pieces systematically appreciate in value on the second-hand market. A Medium Classic Flap that cost €2,850 in 2010 now trades between €7,000 and €11,000. This appreciation is fuelled by the house's annual price increases (5-15% per year since 2015) and the growing rarity of older models.

Which Chanel models are most sought after second-hand?

The most sought-after models are the Classic Flap in black caviar leather (Medium and Jumbo), the 2.55 in its 2005 reissue, the Boy Bag in caviar leather, the Lagerfeld-era tweed suits from before 2000, and vintage costume jewellery from the 1970s to 80s. Limited editions and discontinued pieces are the rarest and most highly valued.

What is the difference between vintage Chanel and new Chanel?

Vintage Chanel offers several advantages: a price generally lower than the current retail (despite appreciation), leather and finishes often superior (Chanel has simplified certain productions since the 2010s), a unique character (patina, history) and immediate availability (versus several months of waiting in store for certain models). New Chanel, in return, offers the house guarantee and a piece in perfect condition.

Where can I buy vintage Chanel in Brussels?

Les Enfants d'Édouard, 175 Avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, offers one of the most complete selections of vintage Chanel in Belgium. Every piece is authenticated and delivered with a certificate. We receive 15 to 25 new Chanel pieces per month and welcome you Tuesday through Saturday, with the option of a private appointment.

What is Chanel caviar leather?

Caviar leather is a calfskin with a pronounced, regular grain, named for its texture resembling caviar eggs. Introduced at Chanel in the 1980s, it is prized for its exceptional resistance to scratches, its durability over time and its ability to retain its shape. It is ideal for daily use, unlike the more delicate lambskin.

How do I care for a Chanel Classic Flap bag?

Store it in its original dust bag with tissue paper padding, away from sunlight and humidity. Clean the leather with a soft, slightly damp cloth (caviar) or specific care for fragile leather (lambskin). Polish the chains with a dry microfibre cloth. Avoid all chemical products. Regular care preserves the bag's value over several decades.

What is the average price of a Medium Classic Flap second-hand?

The price of a Medium Classic Flap second-hand ranges from €4,500 to €11,000 depending on several criteria: the year of production (models from before 2010 are more sought after), the condition (perfect, very good, good), the material (caviar more highly rated than lambskin), the colour (black remains the benchmark), and the presence of original elements (card, dust bag, box).

Does Chanel offer an official authentication service?

No. Unlike some houses, Chanel does not offer an authentication service for private individuals. This is why it is crucial to buy from specialist resellers who authenticate each piece according to a rigorous methodology before placing it on sale.

Can I try Chanel pieces in the boutique at Les Enfants d'Édouard?

Yes, all our Chanel pieces can be tried in the boutique on Avenue Louise in Brussels. We recommend booking an appointment to benefit from private guidance, especially if you are hesitating between several models or sizes.

What guarantee do you offer on Chanel pieces?

Every Chanel piece sold by Les Enfants d'Édouard is guaranteed 100% authentic, delivered with its certificate of authenticity. You benefit from a 14-day return window (excluding return shipping costs). Should any future doubt arise about a piece purchased from us, our team remains available for any additional verification.

Are Chanel pieces numbered?

Yes, since 1984 each Chanel bag has a unique 7 or 8 digit serial number, paired with an authenticity hologram and a card. Jewellery has been dated since 1985 with a seasonal code. Ready-to-wear carries a label with the collection number and season. These numbering systems allow precise dating of each piece and constitute a key element of authentication.

You May Also Enjoy

Looking for an Authentic Chanel Piece?

Browse our full Chanel selection or book an appointment with our team for a private fitting on Avenue Louise.

• ✓ Authenticity guaranteed: every piece certified
• ✓ Secure delivery: Belgium, France, Europe
• ✓ 14-day returns: satisfied or refunded
• ✓ Boutique 175 Avenue Louise: 1050 Brussels