Acne Studios

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Discover our carefully authenticated selection of vintage Acne Studios pieces: wool and mohair scarves, coats, leather jackets, denim, bags and rare archive pieces from Jonny Johansson's collections. Every piece is hand-evaluated by our team on avenue Louise and comes with a certificate of authenticity. Because Acne Studios is not just a brand — it is the most influential voice in Scandinavian luxury fashion.

The history of Acne Studios, from Stockholm to the world

Founded in 1996 in Stockholm by Jonny Johansson, Acne Studios began as a creative collective — its name originally stood for "Ambition to Create Novel Expressions." The label first attracted attention in 1997 when Johansson produced 100 pairs of raw denim jeans with distinctive red stitching and an unfinished raw edge, distributed to friends and colleagues. The immediate following they generated established the house's aesthetic DNA: considered, understated, with a Scandinavian refusal of excess.

Through the 2000s and 2010s, Acne Studios expanded into a full ready-to-wear house, building a global reputation for its exceptional knitwear, tailoring, leather goods and — above all — its wool and mohair scarves, which became one of the most recognisable luxury accessories of the decade. The house's aesthetic combines Scandinavian restraint with intellectual playfulness. Acne Studios remains privately owned and independent, continuing to operate from Stockholm under Johansson's creative direction.

Iconic Acne Studios pieces

The wool and mohair scarf

Perhaps the single most recognisable Acne Studios piece: a large, fringed scarf in wool, mohair or a blend of both, in a wide range of colourways. The oversized proportions, exceptional softness and fringe detail made it one of the most copied accessories of the 2010s. Rare colorways and limited-edition versions from early collections (2012–2018) are particularly prized.

The Max coat

Acne Studios' long, oversized wool coat has become a wardrobe staple for those who value architectural simplicity and exceptional material quality. In double-faced wool, camel hair or technical fabrics, and available in a wide range of colourways. Pieces from archive collections (2014–2020) in discontinued colorways are particularly collectible.

Leather jackets

Acne Studios leather jackets — biker-inspired but refined, with clean lines and exceptional leather — have been a house staple since the early collections. Made from the finest lambskin and nappa, they combine rock edge with Scandinavian restraint. The Merlyn and Gibson styles are consistently in demand.

Denim

Denim is part of Acne Studios' founding DNA. The house's raw denim jeans combine precise tailoring with the finest Japanese and Italian fabrics. Archive denim pieces from the early collections and special editions are collectible for their historical significance as much as their quality.

Bags

Acne Studios bags — the Musubi, the Platt, the Multipocket — are produced in fine leathers and combine functional intelligence with a distinctive visual identity. The Musubi (with its distinctive knot closure) and the Platt (a flat, envelope-style bag) are the most sought-after secondhand.

Knitwear

Acne Studios knitwear in cashmere, wool and mohair often features subtle textural details or unexpected proportions that elevate it beyond conventional knitwear. Archive pieces from early collections are increasingly difficult to find in excellent condition.

How to authenticate an Acne Studios piece

Authenticating an Acne Studios piece requires the examination of several combined criteria. Here are the 7 checkpoints we systematically verify in our atelier on avenue Louise.

1. The interior label and typography

All Acne Studios pieces carry a sewn interior label reading "Acne Studios" in a distinctive clean sans-serif typeface, with composition and country of origin. Older pieces (pre-2014) may carry the "Acne" label without "Studios". Any variation in font weight, spacing or label quality is a red flag.

2. The scarf label

Acne Studios scarves carry a distinctive leather label sewn at one end with the Acne Studios name embossed. The label is in soft, high-quality leather and should be firmly attached. Counterfeit scarves often feature a plastic or low-quality leather label, or one that is stitched rather than properly attached through the fabric.

3. The material quality

Acne Studios uses premium materials throughout: mohair and wool for scarves and knitwear, finest lambskin and nappa for leather jackets and bags, Japanese and Italian denim for jeans. Authentic Acne Studios mohair is exceptionally soft and fluffy — almost cloud-like.

4. The construction and finishing

Acne Studios construction is precise and clean: perfectly aligned seams, tight consistent stitching, cleanly finished edges. On leather jackets, hardware (zips, studs) is solid and heavy. On bags, the lining is perfectly cut and sewn.

5. The hardware

Zips, studs and buckles are in solid metal with a clean, consistent finish. Zips are signed by quality manufacturers (YKK, Lampo) and open smoothly. Any hardware that feels light, hollow or poorly finished is suspect.

6. The denim quality

Authentic Acne Studios denim has a distinctive weight and texture — heavier than mass-market denim, with a precise weave. Raw denim pieces have a characteristic indigo depth that develops a beautiful fade with wear.

7. The overall coherence

Acne Studios pieces have a distinctive visual coherence — a Scandinavian calm and precision. The proportions are always considered, the colorways always exact. A piece that feels slightly "off" in any dimension warrants closer examination.

Our method: at Les Enfants d'Édouard, every piece undergoes a three-stage examination — visual inspection, technical verification (label, material, construction, hardware) and cross-referencing against our reference database. Every authenticated piece comes with our certificate of authenticity.

Size guide

Acne Studios size guide
Acne size	EU equivalent	UK equivalent	Best for
XS	34–36	6–8	Fitted silhouettes
S	36–38	8–10	Standard fit
M	38–40	10–12	Standard fit
L	40–42	12–14	Relaxed fit
XL	42–44	14–16	Oversized looks

Sizing notes

Acne Studios cuts vary significantly by collection: some pieces are fitted, others deliberately oversized. Always check actual measurements secondhand. Leather jackets tend to run true to size or slightly small — when in doubt, size up for a more contemporary fit.

Why invest in a vintage Acne Studios piece

Acne Studios occupies a unique position on the secondary market: accessible enough to attract a wide audience, yet produced to a quality standard that ensures pieces age exceptionally well. The mohair and wool scarves — which retailed for around €200–€350 — now trade at between €150 and €500 depending on colorway and condition. Rare colorways and limited editions can command premiums well above their original retail price. Leather jackets from archive collections (2010–2020) have appreciated significantly, as have wool coats in discontinued colorways.

For those wishing to sell an Acne Studios piece, we offer an expert consignment service.

Our Acne Studios selection in Brussels, avenue Louise

Our boutique Les Enfants d'Édouard, 175 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, carries a curated selection of authenticated vintage Acne Studios. We welcome you Tuesday to Saturday and offer private appointments.

Care and maintenance of your Acne Studios pieces

For mohair and wool scarves, hand wash gently in cold water with a specialist wool detergent, or dry clean. Lay flat to dry — never hang. Store folded in a breathable cotton bag with natural moth repellents. Pilling is normal and can be removed with a cashmere comb.

For wool coats, dry clean at a specialist. Hang on wide, padded hangers. Store in a breathable cotton cover with moth repellents.

For leather jackets and bags, store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Clean with a soft, slightly damp cloth. Condition once or twice a year with a colourless leather cream.

Frequently asked questions about vintage Acne Studios

How do I recognise an authentic Acne Studios scarf?

A leather label sewn at one end with "Acne Studios" embossed cleanly, exceptionally soft and fluffy mohair or wool of consistent quality, correct proportions (typically 50 × 200 cm for the standard scarf), an even fringe of consistent length, and deep, uniform colour. The label should be attached through the fabric, not simply stitched on top.

Do Acne Studios pieces appreciate in value?

Yes, particularly scarves in rare or discontinued colorways, leather jackets from archive collections (2010–2020), and wool coats in discontinued colorways. The secondary market has grown as the house's status as a Scandinavian luxury reference has solidified.

Which Acne Studios pieces are most sought-after?

Mohair and wool scarves (rare colorways and limited editions from 2012–2018), the Max coat in archive colorways, leather biker jackets (Merlyn, Gibson lines), early collection denim, and the Musubi bag.

What warranty do you offer on Acne Studios pieces?

Every piece is guaranteed 100% authentic, with a certificate of authenticity and 14 days to return (return shipping costs excluded).