Collection: Hermès

Our Hermès selection: Birkin, Kelly and Constance bags, silk carrés and small leather goods, each piece rigorously authenticated by our experts before being offered for sale in our boutique on Avenue Louise, Brussels.

The History of Hermès, from Paris to the Present Day

Hermès was founded in 1837 on the Rue Basse-du-Rempart in Paris by Thierry Hermès, a saddler of German origin. The workshop specialised from the outset in crafting harnesses and bridles for the horses of the European nobility and upper bourgeoisie. The exceptional quality of its pieces quickly won favour with the French aristocracy and, shortly after, with foreign royal courts.

In 1880, the founder's son, Charles-Émile Hermès, relocated the house to 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, an address it has never left. His sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice took over at the turn of the twentieth century. It was Émile-Maurice who, in 1918, introduced France's first zip fastener, imported from Canada: a technical milestone that foreshadowed Hermès's ability to embrace innovation without ever compromising its artisanal spirit. That same decade saw the arrival of the first leather handbags for women and a leather jacket commissioned by the Prince of Wales.

The 1930s marked a decisive turning point. Robert Dumas, Émile-Maurice's son-in-law, designed a structured leather bag intended for women's daily use, named the "Sac à Dépêches": it would become, two decades later, the Kelly. In 1937, the first silk carré appeared, now as emblematic of the house as its bags. That same year, Hermès celebrated its centenary, reaffirming the values of artisanal excellence that remain the guiding thread of its entire history.

Jean-Louis Dumas took the helm of the house in 1978 and led its transformation into a global luxury empire, while safeguarding the hand production methods of the French ateliers. It was he who, during a chance encounter with Jane Birkin on a Paris-to-London flight in 1983, sketched the first outlines of the future Birkin bag. Under his leadership, Hermès extended its reach into watchmaking, jewellery, tableware and perfumery, while firmly resisting the advances of outside conglomerates. Pierre-Alexis Dumas, a direct descendant of the founding family, has served as Executive Artistic Director since 2011, overseeing the creative coherence of all product lines, with Axel Dumas as Executive Chairman.

In 2024, Hermès posted record revenues of €15.17 billion, employing more than 25,000 people worldwide, of whom 15,556 are based in France. The house remains majority-owned by the founding family, which successfully repelled an attempted stake-building by LVMH in 2010 through the defensive holding structure H51. Hermès thus remains one of the last great independent players in global luxury, with a market capitalisation exceeding €230 billion in early 2025.

Iconic Hermès Pieces

The Birkin: Birth of an Icon (1984)

In 1983, British actress Jane Birkin was seated beside Jean-Louis Dumas on a commercial flight when she mentioned her difficulty in finding a large leather bag that was both practical and elegant. The two sketched the contours of the future bag together on an airsickness bag. The Birkin was officially launched in 1984. Entirely hand-sewn by a single craftsman, it requires between 15 and 20 hours of work depending on size (ranging from 20 cm to 40 cm, not including travel formats). Its trapezoidal silhouette, two top handles and turn-lock closure define its timeless aesthetic. Available in Togo, Epsom and Clémence leathers, as well as exotic skins such as alligator and Porosus crocodile, it has become the most coveted leather good in the world and the definitive benchmark of the secondary market.

The Kelly: From Grace Kelly to Eternity (1935, renamed 1956)

Designed by Robert Dumas in the 1930s under the name "Sac à Dépêches", this structured flap bag entered legend in 1956 when Princess Grace Kelly used it to shield her pregnancy from the paparazzi during a photoshoot. The image circled the globe, and the bag took on the name Kelly for good. Built on a rigid frame borrowed from saddlery techniques, it uses the same double-needle saddle stitch as Hermès saddles, and is available in Sellier construction (rigid leather, visible stitching) or Retourne (softer leather, interior seams). Its fabrication requires more than 26 individually cut pieces of leather assembled by hand over approximately 18 hours. Sizes range from the Mini Kelly at 15 cm to the Kelly 50.

The Constance: The Elegance of the H (1959)

Created in 1959 by in-house designer Catherine Chaillet, the Constance is distinguished by its H-shaped front clasp and long adjustable shoulder strap. Legend has it that the very first piece was sold on the day of its creator's fifth child's birth. Jacqueline Kennedy adopted the design early on, cementing its international reputation. More discreet than the Birkin or Kelly, the Constance is considered the true connoisseur's choice. It is currently produced in Mini, 18 cm, 24 cm and 25 cm formats.

The Haut à Courroies (HAC): The Ancestor of All (1892)

Originally designed to carry saddles and equestrian equipment, the Haut à Courroies is Hermès's first true bag, dating back to 1892. Its tall, structured silhouette, double-strap construction and brass fittings make it a collector's piece par excellence, produced in very limited quantities. The 40 cm and 50 cm formats are particularly sought after by enthusiasts. Its direct connection to the house's saddlery origins lends it a heritage dimension that the Birkin, though itself inspired by the HAC, cannot quite match.

The Silk Carré: A Printed Masterpiece (1937)

Introduced in 1937, the Hermès silk carré is designed each season by independent artists selected by the house's artistic direction. Each motif, whether equestrian, botanical, geographical or fantastical, is printed onto silk twill through several dozen successive passes of hand-engraved screens. The classic carré measures 90 x 90 cm and weighs approximately 65 grams. Production begins with silk twill woven in Lyon before printing is carried out in Paris. Limited editions, signed pieces or those produced in collaboration with recognised artists can command significant prices on the secondary market.

The Evelyne: The Functional Classic (1977)

Originally conceived for riders wishing to carry grooming brushes and equestrian accessories, the Evelyne was created in 1977 by the Hermès saddlery department. Its most distinctive feature is the perforated H motif on its front panel, originally intended to allow air circulation around equipment. The bag is today produced in Clémence or Epsom leather in TPM, PM and GM formats, and comes with an adjustable shoulder strap. More accessible on the secondary market than the Birkin or Kelly, the Evelyne represents a prized entry point into the world of Hermès leather goods.

How to Authenticate an Hermès Bag

1. The Blind Stamp (Date Code)

Since 1945, Hermès has applied a discreet date code to every bag, heat-pressed into the leather without ink, hence the term "blind stamp". The code consists of a letter corresponding to the year of production, surrounded or not by a geometric shape depending on the era: no shape from 1945 to 1970, a circle from 1971 to 1996, a square from 1997 to 2014, and a letter alone since 2015. Its location varies by model: beneath the interior strap, behind a pocket or on the interior side panel. A raking light source makes it easier to read.

2. The Double-Needle Saddle Stitch

All Hermès leather bags are hand-sewn using the double-needle saddle stitch technique with waxed linen thread, passed simultaneously through the leather by two needles from either side. This method, inherited from the equestrian workshops, produces regular, slightly angled stitches that cannot be replicated by machine. Irregular, overly tight or overly loose stitching, or perfectly symmetrical machine-like seams, should immediately raise concern.

3. The Engraving on the Lock and Hardware

The padlock, key and metal closure elements, whether in gold, silver or palladium tone, all bear the inscription "Hermès Paris" in a clean, precise engraving with no blurring. The padlock carries a number engraved on its lateral edge, which must correspond to the number inscribed on the key and on the closure plate. Any inconsistency between these three numbers is a clear sign of inauthenticity.

4. The Interior Stamp

Inside the bag, the text "Hermès Paris Made in France" must be hot-stamped into the leather in the house's specific typeface. The layout, letter-spacing and depth of the impression are precise and consistent across all authentic pieces. Some models also carry a small engraved metal plate affixed to the interior. A printed or painted label, or one that is glued or sewn on, are immediate red flags.

5. The Leather: Scent, Grain and Feel

Hermès sources its leathers from its own tanneries or certified partner suppliers. Togo leather features a regular pebbled grain; Epsom has a very tight, cross-hatched surface; Clémence has a softer, slightly matte appearance. An authentic bag carries the characteristic scent of tanned leather, never a chemical or plastic odour. The walls are uniform in thickness, and the rigidity or softness corresponds to the declared leather type.

6. Exotic Skin Symbols

When a bag is made from exotic leather, Hermès applies a discreet symbol beside the date stamp to identify the species: a square for Mississippi Alligator, a circumflex accent for Porosus Crocodile, and two dots for Niloticus Crocodile. These symbols, invisible to the naked eye without proper lighting, allow precise identification of the skin's origin, which has significant implications for both valuation and customs regulations.

7. Edge Finishing and Strap Construction

All leather edges are hand-painted in multiple successive layers, then burnished smooth. The colour must be uniform, without cracking or any spillover onto the face of the leather. On Birkin and Kelly bags, the handles are shaped by hand against the craftsman's thigh before being stitched together from several layers of leather: the cross-section is perfectly round, and the texture is dense and firm.

8. Overall Coherence

An authentic Hermès bag displays complete harmony between the leather type, colour, hardware finish (gold, silver, palladium or ruthenium tone) and the year of production indicated by the blind stamp. Certain combinations of colour, leather and hardware have never existed in the official catalogue: their presence alone is sufficient to disqualify a piece.

Our method: at Les Enfants d'Édouard, every piece undergoes a three-stage examination: visual inspection, verification of technical markers (blind stamp, saddle stitch, lock and interior plate engraving), and cross-referencing against our reference archive. Where any doubt arises, we consult a specialist partner in Paris. Every authenticated piece is delivered with our certificate of authenticity.

Size Guide and Hermès Codes

Dimensions and recommended use of the main Hermès bags

Model	Size	Approx. Dimensions	Recommended Use
Birkin	25 cm	25 × 20 × 13 cm	Evening, compact everyday
Birkin	30 cm	30 × 22 × 16 cm	Daily use, classic format
Birkin	35 cm	35 × 25 × 18 cm	Daily use, large capacity
Birkin	40 cm	40 × 30 × 20 cm	Travel, very large capacity
Kelly	Mini (15–20 cm)	15 or 20 × 12 × 7 cm	Evening, formal events
Kelly	25 cm	25 × 18 × 9 cm	Compact daily use
Kelly	28 cm	28 × 22 × 10 cm	Versatile, most sought-after format
Kelly	32 cm	32 × 23 × 10.5 cm	Office, daily use
Kelly	35 cm	35 × 25 × 12 cm	Large capacity
Constance	Mini (14 cm)	14 × 10 × 4 cm	Evening, essentials only
Constance	18 cm	18 × 14 × 5 cm	Evening, classic format
Constance	24 cm	24 × 18 × 6 cm	Daily use
Evelyne	TPM	23 × 20 × 7 cm	Light daily use
Evelyne	PM	29 × 28 × 8 cm	Versatile daily use
HAC	40 cm	40 × 34 × 21 cm	Travel, collector's piece
Silk carré	90 × 90 cm	90 × 90 cm	Classic scarf
Twilly	5 × 85 cm	5 × 85 cm	Accessory, wrist, handle wrap

Hermès date codes (blind stamps):

Hermès blind stamp system by era

Period	Stamp Format	Example
Before 1945	No date stamp used	–
1945–1970	Single letter, no surrounding shape	A = 1945, Z = 1970
1971–1996	Letter inside a circle	Circled A = 1971
1997–2014	Letter inside a square	Squared A = 1997
2015 to present	Alphanumeric combination, non-alphabetical sequence	Atelier-specific sequence

For any questions regarding sizing or Hermès ready-to-wear sizing, please refer to our general luxury size guide.

Why Invest in a Vintage Hermès Piece

The Hermès secondary market is one of the most resilient in luxury leather goods. According to long-term data, Birkin bags have recorded an average appreciation of approximately 14% per year over 35 years, outperforming several major stock market indices. In 2025, Hermès posted the strongest value retention rate among all major luxury houses, with an average resale value representing 138% of the original retail price for the most sought-after references. The 25 cm and 28 cm formats, neutral colourways such as black, étoupe and gold, and classic leathers including Togo and Epsom are the most consistent in terms of value appreciation. Auction records continue to be broken: a Himalaya Birkin 25 sold for over $480,000 at Christie's in 2024.

Acquiring a vintage Hermès piece also means accessing colourways, leathers and hardware finishes that are no longer in production, representing an irreplaceable part of the house's heritage. The scarcity of production, the disciplined pricing strategy Hermès has maintained for decades, and the complete absence of sales or promotions sustain constant pressure on secondary market supply. If you are looking to realise the value of a piece from your collection, we offer an expert consignment service with a complimentary valuation.

Our Hermès Selection in Brussels, on Avenue Louise

Les Enfants d'Édouard is located at 175 Avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, in the heart of the Belgian capital's most prestigious neighbourhood. Our boutique receives approximately twenty new Hermès pieces each month, including bags, silk scarves, small leather goods and accessories, each selected according to strict criteria of condition and authenticity. Every piece is examined by our experts before being placed on display: we only offer what we are able to guarantee.

Our clientele ranges from seasoned collectors to those making their first vintage luxury purchase. Our team is on hand to advise you in the boutique, Tuesday through Saturday. To benefit from exclusive attention and access to pieces not on display, you are welcome to arrange a dedicated private appointment: details are available via the form at the bottom of the page.

Care and Maintenance of Your Hermès Pieces

Leather bags: Hermès leathers are generally treated by the house and do not require the systematic application of conditioning products. Store your bag stuffed with neutral tissue paper inside its cotton dust bag to preserve its shape. Avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, which alters colours, and keep it away from moisture. For minor marks, dab gently with a slightly damp cloth without rubbing. For deep cleaning or leather conditioning, entrust the piece to a craftsman specialising in luxury leather goods.

Silk carrés and twillies: Hermès scarves should be hand-washed in cold water with a mild detergent, or entrusted to a dry cleaner specialising in silk. Do not wring them: roll them in a towel to absorb excess water, then lay flat to dry. Iron on the reverse side at a low temperature, under a damp cotton cloth. Store them folded in a box or rolled around tissue paper to prevent permanent creasing.

Jewellery and accessories: Hermès gold or silver-tone jewellery should be kept away from moisture, perfumes and cosmetic products. Wipe after each wear with a soft, non-abrasive cloth. For Hermès watches, a professional service every three to five years by an authorised watchmaker is recommended for movement revision and seal replacement. Replacement leather straps can be ordered directly from an Hermès boutique.

Frequently Asked Questions About Vintage Hermès

How do I recognise an authentic Hermès bag?

Authenticating an Hermès bag requires the cumulative assessment of several elements: the blind stamp pressed into the leather, the double-needle saddle stitch, the precise engraving on the padlock, key and interior plate, and the overall coherence between leather type, colour and hardware. No single element is sufficient on its own: only their combined analysis allows a definitive conclusion. At Les Enfants d'Édouard, every piece is verified against these criteria before being offered for sale.

Does a vintage Hermès bag appreciate in value?

Iconic references such as the Birkin and Kelly have historically increased in value on the secondary market, driven by limited production volumes and the house's pricing discipline. Smaller formats (Birkin 25, Kelly 28), neutral colourways and classic leathers have shown the most consistent performance. That said, appreciation depends heavily on the condition of the piece, its rarity and market trends: consulting an expert before any investment-oriented purchase remains advisable.

Which Hermès models are most sought after in the vintage market?

The Birkin 25 and Birkin 30, the Kelly 28 Sellier and Kelly 25, and the Constance 18 are among the most in-demand models. Versions in exotic skins (alligator, Porosus crocodile) and rare colourways such as Bleu Électrique, Rose Sakura, Vert Véronèse or Himalaya attract particular interest from collectors. The Haut à Courroies is also highly prized for its exceptional heritage value.

What is the difference between a Birkin and a Kelly?

The Birkin features two top handles and a flap closure secured by a strap, padlock and key, giving it a more relaxed, everyday silhouette. The Kelly has a single top handle and can also be carried over the shoulder via its removable strap. Its construction, rigid in Sellier form or supple in Retourne, gives it a more formal profile. The Kelly is often described as more understated; the Birkin as more immediately recognisable.

Vintage versus new: which is better for an Hermès bag?

Buying new from Hermès requires building a long-term relationship with the house, with no guarantee of access to the most coveted models. The vintage market provides direct access to authenticated pieces, often in discontinued colourways or leathers, and sometimes at prices comparable to or below retail for classic formats. Condition is the primary differentiating factor: a well-preserved vintage piece offers an excellent alternative to buying new.

Where can I buy an authenticated vintage Hermès bag in Brussels?

Les Enfants d'Édouard, at 175 Avenue Louise in Brussels, offers a selection of rigorously authenticated Hermès pieces. Every item is verified by our experts before sale and delivered with a certificate of authenticity. We receive new pieces each month and guide each client through their choice, whether in-store or during a private appointment.

How should I care for a leather Hermès bag?

Store your bag stuffed with neutral tissue paper inside its cotton dust bag, away from light and moisture. Avoid any contact with perfumes or cosmetic products. For minor marks, dab gently with a slightly damp cloth without rubbing. For deep cleaning or conditioning, entrust the piece to a craftsman specialising in luxury leather goods: Hermès leathers do not tolerate the application of unsuitable products.

What is the average price of a vintage Hermès bag?

Prices vary considerably depending on the model, size, leather, colourway, hardware and condition of the piece. As a general guide, a Birkin 30 or Kelly 28 in good condition on the secondary market typically ranges from €8,000 to €20,000 for classic versions, and can far exceed this range for exotic skin versions or rare colourways. The Constance and Evelyne are generally available at lower price points, making the Hermès universe more accessible.

Is there a guarantee on pieces purchased from Les Enfants d'Édouard?

Every piece sold in our boutique is delivered with our certificate of authenticity. We also offer a 14-day return window from the date of receipt, provided the item is returned in its original condition. Should any question arise after purchase, our team remains available to assist you.

Can I try pieces in the boutique?

Yes, our boutique on Avenue Louise is open Tuesday through Saturday. You are welcome to come in and try pieces on display, with the guidance of our team. For access to pieces not on display, or for a more exclusive experience, you may request a private appointment via our online form.

How do I read the Hermès date code (blind stamp)?

The blind stamp is a discreet impression pressed into the leather without ink, visible under raking light. It indicates the year of production through a letter, sometimes surrounded by a geometric shape depending on the era: a circle from 1971 to 1996, a square from 1997 to 2014, and a letter alone since 2015. Its location varies by model: beneath the interior strap, behind a pocket, or on the interior side panel. The stamp alone is not sufficient to authenticate a piece, but it is a key element within the broader set of indicators to examine.

Does Hermès use individual serial numbers on its bags?

Hermès does not assign individual serial numbers to each bag as some other houses do. Its identification system relies on the date code blind stamp, the craftsman code (which identifies the maker internally) and, for exotic skins, the material symbols. This system is unique to Hermès and differs from the serial numbers engraved on pieces by Chanel or Louis Vuitton.

---

You May Also Enjoy

Looking for an Authentic Hermès Piece?

Browse our full Hermès selection online, refreshed each month. For a personalised visit and privileged access to our pieces, book an appointment with our team.

• ✓ Authenticity guaranteed on every piece
• ✓ Secure delivery across Belgium and Europe
• ✓ 14-day returns accepted
• ✓ Boutique open Tue–Sat, 175 Avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels

Information verified against primary sources: Hermès International official records and leading auction houses. The 2024 revenue figure of €15.17 billion is reported by Hermès International (Wikipedia, public corporate data); the Himalaya Birkin 25 auction record of over $480,000 in 2024 is sourced from Sotheby's.