Our Louis Vuitton selection: Speedy and Keepall bags, Neverfull totes, Alma, Pochette Métis and small leather goods, each piece rigorously authenticated by our experts before being offered for sale in our boutique on Avenue Louise, Brussels.
The History of Louis Vuitton, from 1854 to the Present Day
Louis Vuitton was founded in Paris in 1854 by a young Burgundian craftsman of the same name, who had worked since 1837 as a trunk-layer (layetier-emballeur) in the service of Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III. In 1858, Vuitton revolutionised luggage by replacing the traditional domed trunk with a flat-topped design that could be stacked easily on steamers and railway carriages. Covered in grey Trianon canvas, it was both lighter and more resistant to water than anything available at the time. The Louis Vuitton trunk became the preferred luggage of the European aristocracy and wealthy travellers within a decade.
In 1871, Louis Vuitton opened his first proper shop at 1 rue Scribe in Paris. On his death in 1892, his son Georges took over and immediately faced a crisis of counterfeiting. In 1896, Georges created the iconic Monogram canvas, combining the interlocking LV initials with floral motifs drawn from Japanese and Oriental art then fashionable in Paris. The design was copyrighted and has remained virtually unchanged ever since. Georges also introduced the tumbler lock and the five-pin lock, making Louis Vuitton trunks virtually impossible to force open.
The twentieth century saw the house expand steadily: the Keepall travel bag appeared in the early 1930s, the Speedy in 1930 (originally produced exclusively for Audrey Hepburn in a smaller format in 1965), and the Noé in 1932. In 1977, Henri Racamier, son-in-law of the then-proprietor, took over management and oversaw massive international expansion. In 1987, Louis Vuitton merged with Moët Hennessy to form LVMH. The house has since operated as the flagship brand of the world's largest luxury goods conglomerate.
Marc Jacobs served as artistic director from 1997 to 2013, transforming Louis Vuitton into a fashion powerhouse through collaborations with Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami and Richard Prince. Nicolas Ghesquière succeeded him in 2013 and continues in the role today, bringing a more architectural and technical sensibility. Since March 2021, Louis Vuitton has replaced date codes with embedded microchips for enhanced authentication on new production.
Iconic Louis Vuitton Pieces
The Speedy: From Travel Bag to Street Icon (1930)
Originally created in 1930 as a smaller version of the Keepall travel bag, the Speedy became a cultural phenomenon when Audrey Hepburn requested a personalised version in a 25 cm format in 1965, making it the first Louis Vuitton bag designed specifically at a customer's request. Its cylindrical silhouette with flat bottom, double zip closure and Vachetta leather trim are instantly recognisable. Available in the classic Monogram and Damier Ebène canvases, as well as Empreinte embossed leather, the Speedy remains one of the most versatile and collected entry-level LV pieces on the secondary market.
The Neverfull: The Essential Tote (2007)
Introduced in 2007, the Neverfull was designed as an everyday open-top tote that, as its name implies, never fills up. Its clean lines, cinching side strings and interior pouch make it one of the most functional bags in the LV lineup. Available in PM, MM and GM sizes in Monogram and Damier canvases, as well as seasonal limited editions, the Neverfull is the second most traded Louis Vuitton bag on the secondary market after the Speedy.
The Alma: Gaston-Louis's Gift (1932)
Designed by Gaston-Louis Vuitton in 1932 under the name "Champs-Elysées", the Alma takes its name from the Pont de l'Alma bridge in Paris, adopted officially in 1992. Its distinctive trapezoidal silhouette, rigid base and double-handle construction make it one of the most structured bags in the Louis Vuitton archive. Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly were all photographed with the Alma. It is available in PM, MM and BB formats and is a perennial favourite for collectors.
The Keepall: The Original Weekend Bag (1930)
The Keepall, launched in 1930, is considered the world's first soft-sided travel bag and was a radical departure from the rigid trunk tradition of the house. Available in sizes from 45 to 60 cm, with or without a shoulder strap (Bandoulière versions), the Keepall in Monogram canvas is the definitive expression of the Louis Vuitton travel heritage. Vintage Keepalls from the 1970s and 1980s in particularly good condition are among the most sought-after pieces in the LV archive.
The Murakami and Artist Collaboration Pieces (2003-2006)
Under Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton collaborated with Takashi Murakami in 2003 to create the Monogram Multicolore canvas in 33 vivid colours on a white or black ground, and the Cerises (cherry) Monogram in 2005. The Stephen Sprouse graffiti Monogram (2001) and the Richard Prince Jokes collection (2007-2008) are equally collectible. These limited-edition collaborations command significant premiums on the secondary market and represent the most vibrant chapter in the house's twentieth-century story.
The Pochette Métis: A Modern Cult Object (2015)
Launched in 2015 under Nicolas Ghesquière, the Pochette Métis references the house's mail-carrier heritage with its structured front pocket and brass turn-lock closure. In Monogram Empreinte embossed leather or classic Monogram canvas, it has become one of the most sought-after current Louis Vuitton pieces, with waiting lists at retail and strong values on the secondary market.
How to Authenticate a Louis Vuitton Bag
1. The Date Code
Louis Vuitton introduced date codes in the early 1980s and used them until March 2021, when microchips replaced them. The code consists of two letters (indicating the factory country) followed by four digits (encoding the production date). From 2007 to 2021, the letters represent the manufacturing country, the first and third digits give the week of production, and the second and fourth digits give the year: for example, SD4081 means week 48 of 2010, made in the USA. Codes vary in format by era: three or four digits only (early 1980s), then letters plus digits in various arrangements. A bag from the 1970s should have no date code at all.
2. The Monogram Canvas Print
On authentic Louis Vuitton Monogram canvas, the LV initials and floral motifs are printed symmetrically on both sides of the bag, with the pattern never cut arbitrarily at seams: the design is carefully aligned so that the canvas flows naturally around the piece. The colour is a warm, consistent chestnut brown on a honey-tan ground. Any blurring, colour bleed, misalignment at seams or irregular spacing is a strong indicator of a fake.
3. The Interior Stamp
The interior leather tab or lining carries the heat-stamped text "Louis Vuitton Paris Made in France" (or Made in Spain, USA, Germany, Italy, depending on the factory). The typeface is precise, with serifs on the "L" and "V". Any blurring, inconsistent capitalisation or missing elements should raise concern.
4. The Vachetta Leather
Authentic Louis Vuitton bags in Monogram or Damier Ebène canvas have handles, trim and base protection in Vachetta (untreated cowhide leather) that starts very pale cream and develops a warm honey patina with use and exposure to light. New bags have pale, almost white Vachetta; older ones develop a rich, even caramel tone. Any Vachetta that is excessively dark on a supposedly new bag, or that shows uneven or blotchy discolouration, should be questioned.
5. The Hardware
All Louis Vuitton hardware, including zippers, clasps and D-rings, should be brass-toned (gold or silver depending on the line), uniform in finish and engraved where appropriate with the Louis Vuitton name. YKK zippers are sometimes used on certain models. Hardware should feel solid and operate smoothly with no play.
6. The Stitching
Louis Vuitton stitching is even, tight and golden-yellow in colour on Monogram canvas pieces. There are no loose threads, skipped stitches or irregular tension. The stitch count is high and absolutely consistent. Poor or irregular stitching is one of the most reliable indicators of a counterfeit.
7. The Lining
Interior linings vary by model, era and canvas type. Monogram canvas bags from the 1980s and 1990s typically feature a natural or brown cross-grain leather lining or a cotton canvas lining. More recent pieces use microfibre or textile linings. Any thin, cheap-feeling or obviously synthetic lining on a supposedly authentic bag is a warning sign.
8. Era Coherence
Every element of a Louis Vuitton bag must be coherent with its era. A Neverfull (introduced 2007) should never carry a date code indicating 2004. The canvas type, lining material, hardware finish and date code format must all align with the known production history of the specific model. Any anachronism is a definitive sign of inauthenticity.
Our method: at Les Enfants d'Édouard, every piece undergoes a three-stage examination: visual inspection, verification of technical markers (date code, canvas print alignment, interior stamp and Vachetta patina), and cross-referencing against our reference archive. Where any doubt arises, we consult a specialist partner in Paris. Every authenticated piece is delivered with our certificate of authenticity.
Size Guide and Louis Vuitton Codes
| Model | Size | Approx. Dimensions | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Speedy | 20 | 20 × 15 × 11 cm | Evening, very compact |
| Speedy | 25 | 25 × 19 × 15 cm | Compact daily, most iconic |
| Speedy | 30 | 30 × 21 × 17 cm | Daily use, versatile |
| Speedy | 35 | 35 × 23 × 18 cm | Large capacity |
| Neverfull | PM | 29 × 24 × 13 cm | Light daily |
| Neverfull | MM | 31 × 28 × 14 cm | Daily, most popular size |
| Neverfull | GM | 39 × 34 × 19 cm | Work, large capacity |
| Alma | BB | 23 × 17 × 11 cm | Compact daily, evening |
| Alma | PM | 31 × 22 × 15 cm | Classic daily |
| Keepall | 45 | 45 × 27 × 20 cm | Weekend travel |
| Keepall | 55 | 55 × 31 × 26 cm | Extended travel |
| Era | Format | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Before 1982 | No date code | – |
| 1982–mid 1980s | 3 or 4 digits only | 8204 = 1982, April |
| Mid 1980s–2006 | 2 letters + 6 digits (month/year interleaved) | VI0034 = France, March 2004 |
| 2007–Mar 2021 | 2 letters + 4 digits (week/year interleaved) | SD4081 = USA, wk 48 of 2010 |
| From Mar 2021 | No date code; embedded microchip | – |
For sizing queries, please refer to our general luxury size guide.
Why Invest in a Vintage Louis Vuitton Piece
Louis Vuitton is consistently ranked as one of the strongest performers in luxury resale. The Monogram canvas, virtually unchanged since 1896, means that a bag from the 1980s is immediately identifiable and retains strong cultural currency. Limited-edition collaborations (Murakami, Sprouse, Prince) have appreciated significantly, with the Murakami Multicolore pieces now firmly established as collector's items. The Speedy 25 and 30 in Monogram canvas remain among the most liquid assets on the secondary market: easy to sell, easy to authenticate, consistently demanded.
Vintage Louis Vuitton also offers access to discontinued canvas patterns (Damier Azur, Vernis in original colourways, Epi leather in colours no longer produced) and to artist collaborations no longer available at retail. If you are looking to value a piece from your own collection, we offer an expert consignment service with a complimentary valuation.
Our Louis Vuitton Selection in Brussels, on Avenue Louise
Les Enfants d'Édouard is located at 175 Avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels. We receive new Louis Vuitton pieces each month: bags in every canvas and leather, small leather goods, accessories and luggage, each selected for condition and authenticity. Every piece is examined by our experts before display.
Our team is on hand Tuesday through Saturday. To view pieces not on display or to arrange a private appointment, please use the form at the bottom of the page.
Care and Maintenance of Your Louis Vuitton Pieces
Canvas bags: wipe gently with a soft damp cloth. Never use solvents or abrasive cloths on the canvas. Store in the dust bag away from light to prevent canvas fading. The Vachetta trim develops patina naturally; to slow darkening, keep away from direct sunlight and moisture.
Vachetta leather trim: untreated Vachetta is sensitive to water and oils. Handle with clean, dry hands. Water marks generally fade over time; for stains, consult a leather specialist rather than treating at home. Conditioner formulated specifically for light, untreated leather can be applied sparingly.
Epi and other leathers: Epi leather is one of the most durable LV materials and requires minimal care. Wipe with a dry cloth. For deeper cleaning, use a product designed for smooth leather. Empreinte leather should be treated similarly to fine-grain calfskin.
Frequently Asked Questions About Vintage Louis Vuitton
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Looking for an Authentic Louis Vuitton Piece?
Browse our full Louis Vuitton selection online, refreshed each month. For a personalised visit, book an appointment with our team.
- ✓ Authenticity guaranteed on every piece
- ✓ Secure delivery across Belgium and Europe
- ✓ 14-day returns accepted
- ✓ Boutique open Tue–Sat, 175 Avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels
Information verified against primary sources: Louis Vuitton official history and LVMH records. The Speedy's creation date (1930) and the Neverfull introduction date (2007) are confirmed by Vogue Adria / Louis Vuitton Monogram anniversary; date code system details sourced from Xupes authentication guide.