Lemaire

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Discover our carefully authenticated selection of vintage Lemaire pieces: coats, knitwear, Croissant and Seamless bags, shoes and ready-to-wear from Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran's collections. Every piece is hand-evaluated by our team on avenue Louise and comes with a certificate of authenticity. Because Lemaire is not just a brand — it is the purest expression of enduring, considered dressing.

The history of Lemaire, from Paris to Tokyo and back

Founded in 1991 by Christophe Lemaire in Paris, the house has had one of the most distinctive and principled trajectories in contemporary fashion. Lemaire trained under Thierry Mugler and Christian Lacroix before launching his own label, and served as creative director of Lacoste (2000–2014) and head of women's ready-to-wear at Hermès (2010–2014), where his restrained, material-focused approach found a perfect home.

His eponymous label, relaunched with renewed focus in 2014 in partnership with his creative companion Sarah-Linh Tran, has since become one of the most quietly influential forces in global fashion. Lemaire's aesthetic is founded on constant principles: exceptional natural materials, functional construction inspired by workwear and sportswear traditions, an earth-toned colour palette, and a deep respect for the body's natural movement. These are clothes designed to be worn, washed and worn again — and to improve with age. The collaboration with Uniqlo (the Uniqlo U line, which Lemaire has designed since 2016) has introduced his design philosophy to a wider audience without diluting the exceptional quality of the main line.

Iconic Lemaire pieces

Coats and outerwear

Lemaire's coats are among the finest produced in contemporary fashion: cut from exceptional natural wools, double-faced cashmere and technical fabrics, they combine functional intelligence with serene formal beauty. The cocoon coat, the straight wool overcoat and the padded puffer styles are among the most sought-after archive pieces. Pieces in signature earth tones — camel, terracotta, tobacco, slate — are particularly prized.

The Croissant bag

Lemaire's most iconic bag: a soft, crescent-shaped leather bag that takes its name from its distinctive curved silhouette. Available in Small and Large sizes, produced in the finest Italian leathers and already among the most sought-after bags on the contemporary secondary market. The earliest colorways in natural vegetable-tanned leather or deep earth tones are the most collectible.

The Seamless bag

A structured leather bag with a distinctive lack of visible seams, achieved through a precise single-piece leather construction. The Seamless embodies Lemaire's design philosophy in object form: a problem solved with formal intelligence and the finest materials.

Knitwear

Lemaire's knitwear in merino wool, cashmere, mohair and cotton often features quietly inventive structures or proportional decisions that elevate it beyond conventional knitwear. These pieces improve dramatically with washing and wearing, developing a softness and personality impossible to achieve from new.

Tailoring and trousers

Lemaire's tailored pieces combine the precision of traditional tailoring with the ease of sportswear construction. Wide-leg trousers with a precise drape, blazers cut to move with the body, shirts in the finest natural cottons: wardrobe foundations that improve with age and resist obsolescence entirely.

Shoes

Lemaire shoes — Derbys, loafers, boots, mules — are produced in Italy from fine leathers, with a commitment to natural materials and functional elegance. The house's footwear has developed a devoted following among those who prioritise craft over trend.

How to authenticate a Lemaire piece

Authenticating a Lemaire piece requires the examination of several combined criteria. Here are the 7 checkpoints we systematically verify in our atelier on avenue Louise.

1. The interior label

All Lemaire pieces carry a sewn interior label reading "Lemaire" in a clean, precise typeface, with composition and country of origin (typically "Made in France", "Made in Italy" or "Made in Portugal" depending on the piece). For earlier pieces under the "Christophe Lemaire" label (pre-2014 relaunch), the label format differs.

2. The material quality

Lemaire uses exclusively natural materials: wool, cashmere, cotton, silk, linen, leather. The hand of authentic Lemaire knitwear is exceptionally soft and substantial. Any synthetic material where a natural one is expected is a red flag.

3. The colour palette

Lemaire's colour palette is one of the most distinctive in fashion: deep earth tones, natural neutrals, occasional primary accents used with restraint. The colours are deep and complex. Any piece with colours that feel flat, synthetic or "off" deserves closer examination.

4. The construction and finishing

Lemaire's construction combines traditional craftsmanship with functional intelligence: flat-felled seams, carefully placed pockets, closures that work. The finishing is meticulous — hems are even, buttonholes are precise, thread colours exactly matched.

5. The hardware (bags)

Lemaire bag hardware is minimal and functional, in solid brass or similar quality metals. Precisely made, with a natural, unlacquered finish that will develop a patina with use. Any hardware that feels lightweight or excessively polished is suspect.

6. The leather quality

Lemaire leathers should feel supple and substantial, with a natural scent. The house's vegetable-tanned leathers develop a beautiful patina with use — a design intention, not a flaw. Leather that feels stiff, plasticky or inconsistently coloured is not Lemaire.

7. The silhouette and proportions

Lemaire's proportions are extremely specific: the width of a lapel, the break of a trouser leg, the length of a coat hem are all the result of deliberate and precise decisions. Any piece with proportions that feel "slightly wrong" deserves closer attention.

Our method: at Les Enfants d'Édouard, every piece undergoes a three-stage examination — visual inspection, technical verification (label, material, construction, hardware) and cross-referencing against our reference database. Every authenticated piece comes with our certificate of authenticity.

Size guide

Lemaire Croissant bag size guide
Model	Dimensions	Best for
Croissant Small	24 × 14 × 7 cm	Light day bag / evening
Croissant Large	35 × 20 × 10 cm	Full day / work
Seamless Small	22 × 16 × 8 cm	Light day bag
Seamless Large	30 × 22 × 10 cm	Versatile day bag

Ready-to-wear: sizing

Lemaire uses French and European sizing: 34 (XS), 36 (S), 38 (M), 40 (L), 42 (XL), 44 (XXL). The house's cuts are generous and functional, designed for layering and movement. Outerwear is cut to wear over knitwear and is often sized up by the house's own recommendation. Always verify actual measurements secondhand.

Why invest in a vintage Lemaire piece

Lemaire occupies a unique position in the vintage market: pieces are genuinely designed to last indefinitely, and the aesthetic transcends seasonal trend cycles so completely that a piece from a decade ago is indistinguishable from current season in terms of relevance. A Lemaire coat from 2015 is as contemporary in 2025 as the day it was made. The Croissant bag trades on the secondary market at between €600 and €1,000 — significantly below its original retail price, representing extraordinary value for the quality on offer. Archive coats in exceptional condition from 2015–2022 trade at between €400 and €900. As Lemaire's global profile continues to grow, the secondary market for its finest pieces will tighten accordingly.

For those wishing to sell a Lemaire piece, we offer an expert consignment service.

Our Lemaire selection in Brussels, avenue Louise

Our boutique Les Enfants d'Édouard, 175 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, carries a curated selection of authenticated vintage Lemaire. We welcome you Tuesday to Saturday and offer private appointments.

Care and maintenance of your Lemaire pieces

For wool and cashmere outerwear, dry clean at a specialist. Hang on wide, padded hangers in breathable cotton covers. Brush gently after each wear. Store with natural moth repellents.

For knitwear, hand wash in cold water with a specialist wool detergent, or dry clean. Lay flat to dry — never hang knitwear. Store folded. Lemaire knitwear genuinely improves with careful washing over time.

For leather bags and shoes, store in the original cotton dust bag. Clean with a soft, slightly damp cloth. Condition once or twice a year. Vegetable-tanned leathers will develop a patina with use — allow and encourage this process.

Frequently asked questions about vintage Lemaire

How do I recognise an authentic Lemaire piece?

A sewn interior label reading "Lemaire" in a precise, clean typeface with composition and origin details; exclusively natural materials (wool, cashmere, cotton, silk, leather) of exceptional quality; construction combining traditional craftsmanship with functional intelligence; a colour palette of deep, complex earth tones; precisely considered proportions; and an overall feel of material and construction excellence that is the house's defining characteristic.

Do Lemaire pieces appreciate in value?

Lemaire pieces tend to maintain their value rather than depreciate, because their exceptional materials and construction mean they age beautifully. The Croissant bag and archive coats in excellent condition command prices close to their original retail. As the house's global profile grows, its finest archive pieces are beginning to appreciate.

Which Lemaire pieces are most sought-after?

The Croissant bag (Small and Large) in natural leather and earth tones, wool and cashmere coats from archive collections (2015–2022) in discontinued colorways, cashmere and merino knitwear in the finest grades, tailored blazers and wide-leg trousers, and Derby shoes and loafers.

What is the difference between Lemaire and the Uniqlo U collaboration?

Lemaire is the main line, produced in France, Italy and Portugal from the finest available natural materials at a premium price point. Uniqlo U is a separate collaboration designed by Christophe Lemaire and produced by Uniqlo at mass-market price points and quality levels. The design DNA is related but the materials, construction and price are entirely different.

What warranty do you offer on Lemaire pieces?

Every piece is guaranteed 100% authentic, with a certificate of authenticity and 14 days to return (return shipping costs excluded).